As Far As the Eye Can See

Today in Hong Kong the weather is just perfect and the skies are clear! Time for another hike on the Dragon’s Back! This time I am able to see out to outlying islands and the green golf course by Shek O. I really can’t believe that it is so clear. If the sun were behind me I would be able to see as far as the horizon and the different channels around the Island.

The hike is quick and easy as it is cool and there is no smog clogging my lungs. I am joined by some freewheeling paragliders! Now that is the perfect way to enjoy this perfect day! They swoop by and catch an updraft and seem to just hang out in their padded comfortable seats in the sky.

All Dressed Up for Christmas

Hong Kong seems to really have pulled out all the stops for decorating for Christmas this year. It may be the same as last year, but it seems much more Christmas-y this year!
In SoHo many of the restaurants have Christmas trees out and lights are everywhere. Every year the large buildings put up neon lights on their faces celebrating the holiday season. Season’s Greetings is scrawled on the side of one building with electric fire works lighting up; Chinese characters welcoming the new year are on another. Across the harbor Kowloon buildings get into the act as well- with wide rather than tall buildings dressed all in colorful neon.

It really is an amazing time of year to be in Hong Kong.

Hiking in Hong Kong? moo!

TODAY in Hong Kong I joined my fellow hikers from the Dragon's back excursion for a much longer, tougher hike. We hiked up a doozy called Violet Hill. More like Violent Hill! There are basically 3 hills to climb, the middle one being the most daunting. It is straight up. Up stairs!

But it is far from civilization and the views are great. You really see a different side of Hong Kong this way. At the end we ended up above Stanley, where we retired for some beer and pizza!

Greeks alive!

TODAY in Shanghai I took a Greek cooking class!

There is a new gourmet shop in town that offers Greek fare. And tonight they had a special class so people can learn more about what they sell and how to use it!

What fun!

Update

Today in Shanghai it is 4:00 pm and I have finally reached my destination. The plane actually ended up being delayed and when it came time to make a choice on the food I looked over the shoulder of the guy in front of me and decided that I would get whatever the other choice was. When came to me there was no choice- only the same slop as what the guy in front of me was getting!

Actually, it wasn't too bad. I could taste a lot Sichuan peppercorn, which numbs the tongue. So it is possible that my tongue was just too numb to taste it.
So it was NOT the best decision to do the whole Shenzhen instead of Hong Kong thing. But I am glad I am here.

Coming into Shanghai the sky was blue with dark clouds. The sun was streaming through the holes between the clouds, making not bright rays of light but actually dark rays streaming out like Thor on the warpath. Below the clouds the sky was armagedon orange- smoky and sultry, with the city below reaching up into this bizarre color.

I see new developments and the landscape changing again before my very eyes. The new Mori building, soon to be the tallest building in the world (for about 10 minutes) already dwarfs the old giant - the Jin Mao tower.

I feel like a tourist and new to Shanghai. It is great to feel fresh and impressed anew, but still know where I am going, what I am doing, and how to get around.

This is China

Today in Shenzhen I remembered why saving a little bit of money is not always the best way to go. I am finally in the waiting area of the airport waiting for my flight to Shanghai. Flying from Shenzhen rather than Hong Kong can be a lot cheaper. This flight is about $84. That's before the $20 taxes that they add on after you get fired up on that price. And that is one way. Flying out of Shanghai is more expensive. All told it will be $239 - about 50 bucks cheaper than going from Hong Kong. Getting to the Shenzhen airport couldn't be easier- there are buses that leave from Central!
Well, I spent an hour on the Internet trying to figure out the schedule but never found it. Not even for buses from Wan Chai, which is where they start.
Well, once upon a time I had taken a picture of the schedule on the kiosk and I could just make out that it leaves every hour and I will have to get the 8:15! Ugh.
Iam given a green sticker for my lapel and board with several others, none of whom has a green sticker. Orange, blue, purple, but no green.
The bus goes to the border and then people board other buses to go to various places.
At the border you go through Hong Kong immigration, reboard the bus on the other side, drive to Chinese immigration, and get off with all of your luggage to go through customs. I've done this part before so I know what to expect. In fact, last time I think I had to bring my stuff with me through HK immigration and board a different bus between borders. That was a different company. Once through customs, the place is crazy and crowded and there doesn't seem to be any order. On that's right, I am now in China. The crowd joins more people outside where you can get a taxi or a city bus or get picked up. There are several busses to the right that look like they are going elsewhere. I search for my company's bus and find one. Going to the airport? No.
Where is it?
Over there (vague wave of the hand).
It's a CTS bus? I ask.
Pretty much, he says. I cannot see any busses that say CTS on them but I do find a CTS kiosk and they tell me to wait there. Soon a driver with some people in tow comes along and we dutifully follow him to a small bus. This is why I couldn't see it before, it was hidden by the big busses.
It is another half hour to the airport. So totally it took an hour and a half, versus 40 minutes on the airport express.
It really is at the airport where the confusion, and frustration, starts.
I am let out at the domestic terminal, but have to ask and find out I need to walk to the other terminal for my airline. I guess they are both domestic terminals. The board says I am to go to window 95 for my flight. I don't see a 95 so I double check. It says 95, but the windows only go to 36.
I go ask at the Air China Premium Customer Service desk. The guy has no idea where 95 is. Great. Premium service.
I walk down toward the international section and see behind the glass walls a 95 and 96. I figure my flight must be going internationally via Shanghai. I start to go through the gate and am stopped by the girl manning the help desk. I tell her where I am going and she says I have to go back to the domestic section. I trudge back to look at the board again. This is the thing- people often arrive early to make sure they don't miss their flight so I have to wait for the board to cycle through all the flights till 5:30 this evening before it shows the upcoming flights.
Meanwhile, they have 3 other boards showing all the flights that have departed in the last two hours. Sure enough, it is a flight to Tokyo via Shanghai. I head back to the international section and the ever so efficient help desk. Again they stop me. I tell them that even though the plane goes to Tokyo I will get off in Shanghai when it stops and picks up more people.
No. I must check in in the domestic section. Where? She gives me a range of windows I can use.
Back in the domestic section it is fast to get through, except I had to remind the guy at check-in that I had a bag to check. I think it will be ok.
Now I am on board and it is leaving on time and it is a full flight.
Not all of these people are headed to Tokyo!

So, I left HK at 8:15 for an 11:25 flight and saved 50 bucks. The bus costs the same as the airport express, but is am much bigger hassle and the Chinese airlines are not as good as Dragon Air.

Will I ever live and learn?!

Shopaholic

Today in Hong Kong, for a Thanksgiving party, I made the sweet potatoes! Actually the recipe I wanted to make called for canned sweet potatoes and since I was going for a hike today too, I didn't try to substitute with real yams.

At one super market (for westerners), I found ONE can of sweet potatoes, enough for half a recipe. I said ok but when I looked at it I knew that I would need to get another. After dinner with my boyfriend's family for his mom's birthday I ran to another upscale grocery store and prayed they were still open. They were, another 15 minutes left.

I found that they had 2 cans of already pureed stuff. Great! so I used the one can of chunks and one can of this purreed stuff.

Then I couldn't find any pecans! I could only find candied walnuts or candied pecans (actually I am not sure which it was). This was going to be one sweet pie!
But I asked and a guy went to a section I had already looked at, which I told him so he stopped looking but then I saw a bag of walnuts so decided to get that. Then right next to the walnuts, way back because there was only 1 bag left, I found non-candied pecans!! Yay!

The whole thing cost about $20 to make but it was really good and everyone liked them and I got to cook in my kitchen!!
I had to mix the stuff in three cereal bowls!

Hong Kong has stores that cater to the expat community. There is a newish store called 360 that is like Whole Foods with all organic stuff and grains and brown rice, etc.
There is a store called Oliver's that carries a lot of American stuff! It is very upscale but has things like Doritos Cool Ranch corn chips!!
City Super seems to have an aisle for each community- one for Japanese, one for French (uh, the dairy aisle!), one for Americans, etc. It is also just for any gourmet thing you might need (like canned pureed sweet potatoes). I think most people go here to do their shopping.
But I did notice that a small bag of shallots is HK$25 while at the wet market near my house the same thing is HK$4.
A place called Great has good granola and a good cheese and prepared foods area as well as most things we need.
The local stores, like Park n Shop and Wellcome are very Chinese for the most part, but those that are in heavily expat-populated areas have different things than a regular one, catering to the population around them.

We have a small local Park n Shop and the wet market by us. It is perfect except for those times when we need something special. And down the street is a Costco-like place that sells Tuna and Campbell's in bulk! and they deliver!

Looky Looky

Today in Hong Kong I took my Indonesian friend to a place famous for its huge selection of margaritas. It is a laid-back Tex-Mex style place catering to expats and is situated between two "model dancer" bars.

These "bars" are all up and down Lockhart Rd in Wanchai. Wanchai, famous among US Navy sailors stopping for a short R&R. The interiors are impossible to glimpse as the doors are covered with heavy black curtains. Outside the bars the touts are middle-aged women who go after any white man that isn't already being "escorted" by a young lady (who could be a colleague or girlfriend or whatever). They also seem to leave the guys with a cell phone glued to their ears alone.

I find it very incongruous that the touts are dowdy, frumpy, older women who look like they could be selling their own daughters. They are sexy girls inviting guys in; they aren't sharp slick guys with gold in their teeth; they are just your frumpy landlady in flats and baggy pants and a jacket, no make-up, hair in no particular style. They are not the ideal image of a sex tout!

The ladies at the bar next to us did have a helper comeout somtimes. A buxom Philipina in a skin tight red camisol and matching strech mini-skirt that was carefully arranged so as to show the top of her g-string and the rolls of back fat that most low-slung clothes show off so well.

Lovely!

Christmas Already?

Today in Hong Kong they are already playing Christmas songs in the coffee shop. Isn't there a law against doing that before Thanksgiving?
Well, actually, today IS Thanksgiving!

Not that anyone here cares.

It is possible to get a Thanksgiving meal at some of the American
themed restaurants. I went last year.
The sports bar/pub had reconfigured their tables in order to fit as
many people as possible.
At the long table behind us were seated several kids with one or two nannies. There were some parents too but it was obvious that some had gotten out of it.
The set meal was about 40 bucks for a slice of turkey breast, some overcooked veggies, iceberg salad, and gravy that didn't seem to have any turkey in it.

I miss my mom's gravy!!!!!

Batman comes to Hong Kong

Today in Hong Kong the next installment of "The Dark Knight" started shooting in my neighborhood.

Due to Hong Kong's unique environment, eg terrible pollution, they had to postpone shots of the famous skyline because visibility was too poor!
Worse than that, they had to delete a whole scene! Batman was supposed to jump out of a plane into the harbor. But it is way too polluted so they scrapped the whole scene because the didn't want the Caped Crusader to get an infection.
The Joker has nothing on HK's pollution!
Evidently there were high levels of salmonella and tuberculosis!!
I didn't even know you could get that from water!!

What's cookin' good lookin'?

Today in Hong Kong I made my first real meal in my pantry, I mean kitchen.

This kitchen really is not conducive to preparing anything but rice. Here is a photo of the stove and it is obvious how difficult it is to make a pot of pasta AND something else.

In fact it is NOT possible.

I first had to cook the pasta, then set it aside.

While I was cooking the pasta I was able to wash and prepare some chicken breasts for Chicken Picatta, my signature dish. There is about 1 square foot of counter space next to the sink and I can leave the breasts in the sink and dredge them on a plate next to the sink. I have to use the same plate to put the finished pieces because there really isn't room for another plate! But, all I have to do is turn around and then I am facing the stove.

Then while that is cooking I can drain the pasta (except I don't have a collander) but once I put the pot down then there is no space for anything else so how do I serve myself? I can bring the chicken over to the pasta, but there is no where to put a plate so I can't scoop the pasta onto a plate. I can bring a plate of pasta over to the chicken on the stove, but, again there is no where to put the plate so that I can scoop the chicken and sauce onto the pasta!!

Hmm it is a dilemma. Basically I just made a big mess and ate cold mushy pasta.

And a side dish? forget about it!!

Ho Chi Minh City

Today in HCMC I did my favorite thing, which is eat Pho at Pho 24. It is not the best Pho in Vietnam, but it is pretty good and can be found all over the city.

Ho Chi Minh is a big and BUSY city. There is a lot of modernization going on and each time I visit there is something new to be seen. For example, the new Louis Vuitton superstore on the main shopping street. Or the new boutique hotel just off it that offers affordable rooms with real antiques.

Rain Rain Finally Gone

Today in Na Trang, after two days of non-stop downpour, the sun is coming out. And we are leaving. I can see now that the miserable resort where we stayed is actually quite beautiful and offers a beautiful aqua bay to swim and frollic in. I did swim in this warm water, but in the rain. What a difference the sun can make!

We are headed to visit a photographer who shoots in black and white film the scenes of Vietnam- salt farming, pole carriers taking flowers to market through the huge sand dunes of Mui Ne, fishermen casting their nets, and families of several generations.

Break in the clouds on long sandy beach

Today in Hoi An I got up early to catch the basket boat fishermen casting off to finally catch some fish as the sun finally seems to be trying to make an appearance.

Sure enough, some men are pushing their round boats into the waves.
They paddle to get out to the deeper waters, but as the boat is round and the waves are strong, one guy just keeps getting pushed down the beach.

These basket boats are iconic in central vietnam and I find them especially interesting.

They are woven water-proofed baskets that fit one or 2 people and have no stern nor bow!

Lantern Town

Today in Hoi An I stumbled across a lantern factory. Inside an old temple are about 10 people working on splitting, shaving, bending wood slats into the shape of the lanterns- oval, round, long, etc.

For lunch I ate the traditional Hoi An dish Cau Lau, a bowl of noodles, fried shallots, funny rice croutons, and fresh vegetables. A small amount of soup is poured over the ingredients to give it some flavor. It is really delicious- this area's answer to pho.

Pho is really a northern/Hanoi specialty and, as I am learning on this trip, regional specialties don't really get out of their region. When they do (you can find Pho restaurants everywhere) it is very disappointing.

The only place I can find good pho outside Hanoi is at Pho 24 in Saigon! It is a fast food chain- there is one on every street practically and I did see one in Hue- that serves just pho and it is really good for a chain!

Ahoy Hoi An!

Today in Hoi An I walked the little streets of yesteryear's merchants from Japan, China, and Vietnam. About 300 years ago this little town was a major port and merchants from all over came here to trade. The town was little touched during the war, even though it is close to Danang, the American airbase.

The rich merchants' homes still line the small streets and river, glowing burnt yellow in the setting sun, their tiles roofs red green with young moss. Inside the furnishings and interior are dark hard woods with Chinese and Japanese influences.

One of the most famous sites is the Japanese covered bridge, an intricate wooden curved bridge that has a small altar attached.

There are also ancient Chinese Association Halls/Temples where the Chinese Elders met and made decisions for the community. There was one for the Fujian people, the Cantonese people, and a Chinese Association. The "Board" could buy in for as little as $1 and get their names carved into the marble plate on the wall at the entrance.

I guess it is kind of like the Chinese clubs here in Hong Kong! Fujianese and Cantonese do not want to be in the same association/club!

Danang good seafood!

Today in Danang I had some of the best food ever! This trip has certainly given me a chance to try different Vietnamese food than I have had before!

We went to Ba Thoi- a place recommended by the ticket seller at the Cham museum. Indeed, this place is about a 5 minute walk straight out from the entrance to the museum.

Ba Thoi is a sea food place. Being in Danang on the ocean they probably have good seafood here.

I ordered Crab steamed in Beer. We did notice that there were 5 categories on the English section and 8 on the Vietnamese section but I paid it no mind.

I got steamed shrimp.

No amount of pointing and saying "cua" (crab) would make the woman understand what I wanted. So I will eat big succulent shrimp. NO worries!

Every table in Vietnam has a small dish with a wedge of lime, some chili, and a salty mix of sea salt and maybe MSG and maybe, as in the case of this place, crushed miniture dried fishies. The idea is to use the juice from the lemon and make a sauce/paste with the ingredients for dipping.

Not bad. Limey. (well I made mine mostly liquid with the lime juice).

Then a dish piled high with lettuce, basil, mint, sliced star fruit, zucchini, and other greens arrived. At the same time a plate of rice paper and dishes with fish sauce and peppers and a kind of peanut sauce were set down.

I am supposed to make my own mu shu/burrito/wrap with these ingredients.

Peel the shrimp and take off the head.
Lay a slice of star fruit and a slice of zuccini, some mint, and some other greens on the half-moon rice paper.
Dip the shrimp into the fishsauce and lay it on its bed of greens on the sheet of rice paper.
Wrap it up and gobble down!!

MMMM! Yummy!


The other dish that we didn't order that came out was steamed fish (did I mention the influence of Chinese?) But this was not a simple Chinese steamed fish covered in green onions and drizzled with oily sweetened soy sauce. This fish had scallions, pork, lemon grass shavings, mushrooms, onions, ... a bunch of stuff I couldn't quite distinguish and a sauce from out of this world!!

I am sure it had fish sauce, that is a given. Definitely had sugar. Must have had soy sauce. But what else? there was a little kick to it but I didn't see any peppers. I don't think I could reproduce this dish, but I would sure like to try!!

Chamming in Danang

Today in Danang I went to the Cham Museum, which is one of the best collections of Cham art in the world (another exceptional museum that has this kind of work is the Guimet in Paris).

Cham is the ancient civilization of Vietnam. The center was not from here in central Vietnam. The civilization started in the 4th century AD and was contemporary with the Kmer culture of Cambodia (Ankor Wat), overlapping but not exactly the same dates.

The Chams had strong Hindu influence and had many depictions of Shiva and Vishnu. Their temples were also adorned with celestial dancers similar to those of Ankor Wat.

Personally, I think the Cham dancers are a little more enticing, the walls a little more decorated, and the designs on the walls a little more elaborate.

There are Cham ruins all around Vietnam, but the most famous are in My Son. I don't think I will make it there this trip, but it is supposed to be even more amazing than Ankor (but smaller).

China Beach

Today in Danang I went for a short walk on China Beach. China Beach is where had R&R during the VN war. It is a beautiful beach that is several miles long.

The waves come in at frequent violent intervals due to the monsoon that has hit Vietnam (and seems to be whereever I am) so I can't go swimming, but it makes for an exciting view.

On the drive from Hue I passed fishermen drying out their basket boats. I hope to get some pictures of them using them, but it seems that even most fishermen do not venture out into this kind of raging sea.

The drive from Hue included going over a 1500' pass that gives a good view of the sea on both sides. One side looks down on the road coming up through the green jungly mountain while the other looks down on a leprosy village!

Also at the top old French and American bunkers can be seen, surrounded by hawkers trying to sell you their trinkets and drinks. One girl followed me all over, speaking pretty good English, taking my picture for me, giving me helpful info, then delivering the blow of "will you buy something to help me?"

I bought a bracelet of beads made from buffalo horn (so she said). I like it and I hope that it did indeed help her because she was very nice and helpful!

Unfortunately, because of the weather, visibility was terrible. I did not get any good photos in either direction.

My next job?

Today in Hue I went for a walk down Le Loi Street to look at the high river, stroll through the riverside park, and find some fishing boats to take pictures of.

None of these things were that exciting: the river had gone down a little, the park was empty and dreary, there were no fishing boats. But I did stumble upon the Centre des Langues Etrangeres (Center for Foreign Languages), a beautiful old school with gorgeous grounds.

I wasn't allowed in until the students were out of class, at noon, so I waited until I saw the boys in blue trouser/white starched shirt-uniforms and the girls in white ao yais bicycle out of the all the exits. Few girls actually were wearing these iconic outfits, but I did several and it confirmed that school girls do indeed wear them! In Saigon and Hanoi I never saw any girl wearing the white ao yai that is ubiquitous in any painting, laquerware, or photograph of Vietnam!!

I ventured into the grounds and was amazed by the beautiful brick red buildings surrounded by bright green trees and lawns. Where a building was not red, it was deep blue, an enjoyable contrast.

The residences for boarding students is blue and red and colonial. The main buildings are red two story with plantation shutters and paned windows.


Unfortunately, the facilities are not very good. The students sit on hard bench seats at long tables, maybe 3 to a table, and there are only old green black boards that are shiny and dark.

Imperial imperiousness

Today in Hue I went to the Citadelle, the former Imperial Palace.
It is similar to the Forbidden City in Beijing with a wall and gate and pathways leading up to the main buildings.

A very important battle was waged here during the "American War" when the communists took Hue and battled with the Americans for almost a month, the two sides blowing up everything and killing countless civilians.

The city has never really recovered and the palace is still mostly in ruins. At some place you can see huge bronze pots that are left to stand alone as everything that was once around them burned to the ground.

Today the place is flooded and we enter by hopping from one paving stone to then next to get to dry ground. The paving stones have been laid out for this purpose, but they too are an inch to two inches underwater.


There are some old buildings left and some newly reconstruct
ed areas. The place must have been quite impressive at one time. But there is not enough money to redo it and there is little political will to help this area.

Stoned in Hue

Today in Hue I tried a hot stone massage. At first I wasn't sure about it as they didn't seem to be doing any deep tissue work. But the use of hot smooth stones was amazing. The heat from the stone really seeps into your muscles and spreads throughout the area, melting away tension and causing a deep relaxation that I wasn't expecting.


There is a magazine called AsiaSpa. It is a thick magazine that comes out every month and I have to wonder, how much is there to say about spas in Asia? Evidently a lot. New spas open all the time and cities like Hong Kong have several spas. They all offer pretty much the same stuff, so... what's the point?


Obviously people (women especially) are finding more time (and more money) to do things they like and what they like to do here in Asia is pamper themselves.


I might as well join them!!

Tombs of time

Today in Hue I visited the tombs of the emperor's of the last Vietnamese Dynasty.

These places of rest are beautifully landscaped parks with expansive views of the countryside around. Ornate buildings and engraved Steles mark the tomb. However, at least in one case, the body and the treasure that is supposedly buried with the king were never found! Oftentimes the masons and carpenters and ditch diggers, etc. are killed to keep the exact place of burial a secret.

What I like about Vietnamese architecture is the use of mosaics made from broken shards of pottery.

Scales of a dragon are blue and white china with pastoral scenes. Tombs and temples alike are decorated with mismatched shards and colorful glass. Often the eyes of the large cement animal protectors are glass balls of green or blue.


This special touch really adds a unique feel to Vietnamese work that is not found in China.

Hue good cook

Today in Hue I took a cooking class to learn to make some of that famous Hue food! It was soooo yummy! Damn I'm good!

I made these delicious betel nut tree leaf wrapped beef morsels that are charcoal grilled and then dipped in sweetened fish sauce. Out of this world! I can't wait to make them in California!

Also made famous Hue noodle soup and a scrumdeli-icious carmelized lemon grass chicken. I have never had anything like this before so, no it is not like the lemongrass chicken you can get at any ol' downtown San Jose Vietnamese eatery!

I love learning new things to cook and about the ingredients of different cultures' cuisine.

This class, at La Residence Hotel in Hue, was one of the best classes ever!

Vietnam Roadtrip

Today in Hue I started my Vietnam road trip. After one night in HCMC (Saigon) and a short flight to Hue, I am now in the ancient capital of Vietnam.

Many aspects of Hue life has obvious Chinese influence, from long ago. The writing on old stone stele, or on the ancient bronzes, is Chinese. The Imperial Palace has a layout similar to the Forbidden City in Beijing. The Clothing styles of the royals are practically indistinguishable from that of the royal Chinese.

Even the food has Chinese influences. Actually, Hue is famous for its cuisine and there are over 1000 dishes that come from Hue. Vietnamese imperial food comes from here. What we eat in the States, like Pho and spring rolls, are basically street food and nothing like the high class dishes from Hue.

It is pouring down rain here now and the streets are flooded. The imperial palace and some other tourist sites are inaccessible.

Junkin' around

Today in Hong Kong I went on a junk cruise! This is basically a booze cruise that expats here do as often as they can. Some companies even have their own boats for their employees.

I thought it would be one of those refurbished old junks with the funny red sails that looks out of Taipan. There are a few of these boats that go around in the harbor. I think that Aqua Restaurant Group has one that will take you from Hong Kong island to their restaurants in Kowloon.

This was sorta shaped like a junk, but once on it feels like a regular boat. I was a little disappointed, as I am sure many first timers are! I was the only American and the only first timer (I think).

Still, it was so relaxing to sit up top in the breeze, chatting away while girls brought us nibblies and drinks. The sea breezes were flowing and beer and bad wine was available too.

We motored out to an island (there are about 200 hundred islands off this side of Hong Kong) where there was a small beach. I jumped off the top of the junk and swam to the beach where beer and, thank goodness, water was waiting for us in a cooler.

When the sun shined through, the water was clear aqua and the beach sugary white.

A leisurely swim back (I really didn't want to get out) to the boat brought me there in time for lunch. A pretty good lunch with steak, salmon, and chicken and a yummy eggplant dish (and other stuff too, like salad).

THIS is the life!!

Dragon's Back

Today in Hong Kong I went for a hike on the Dragon's Back. This is a very popular hike on Hong Kong Island that takes only about 2 hours at a pretty leisurely pace. The trail is mostly natural rock with some stone steps and curves up over the undulating verdant hills overlooking the South Side of the island. Below on one side are villas inhabited by HK's richer set and the Hong Kong International School, also occupied by HK's rich set. On the other side are crashing waves, beaches, and a small golf course. It is so great to be out in nature, away from the sounds of traffic and from the throngs of people. We did see a few other hikers, but hiking in HK is definitely one way to get away from it all. Unfortunately, we didn't get away from the heat and smog and the views were definitely obscured by the purple haze that is Hong Kong most of the year. Hopefully as the weather cools down there will be more hikes in store!

We rewarded ourselves with a delicious Thai meal down in the village of Shek-O and a wade in the warm waters. Next time- DEFINITELY bringing my swimgsuit!

Factory blues

Today in Zhongshan, for good measure, we had a repeat of last night's feast for those who couldn’t make it on the night of the wedding. We had 3 more tables and the same food in the same restaurant. It is unclear who exactly were the latecomers as two of the tables were still just the families and us.

After lunch, we went to a garment factory to check out a Chinese factory as one of the American boys wanted to see one. The grand factory that my former student works for won't open until tomorrow as it is still Golden Week so we went to a jeans factory that Lesley's brother did some work for. This “factory” is a little more typical maybe of the small factories that dot the mainland. There are 2 floors, about 50 square feet. The workers live in the back in a somewhat uriney-smelling area. The was a small office and out on the floor there were several (maybe 15) people sitting at sewing machines making collars or sleeves or whatever for the button-down shirts they make. In the back two men were measuring denim. They had a huge length of denim that they had already measured about 12 4 meter lengths from and they still had a huge pile on the floor to get through. They stretch the material out over a table and place a metal rod on the end to keep it in that place, return it to the beginning, where another metal rod is placed and it is brought around over the rod to the first rod, which is removed and placed on top of the material for it to be brought back to the beginning. And so on.

Lesley found some jeans to bring back to the states as samples, but Janey and I looked at them and knew that few American butts were going to fit into those jeans! After that we had to get out of there because I had to take the ferry back to Hong Kong and Jason had to catch a plane back to California. Once again, things that were supposedly going to take 20 minutes took 45 and so on so I wanted to make sure I didn't miss my boat. We left, but were called back so that Jason could take the samples back to California with him on the plane! A huge bag of jeans as his carry on. Lucky him!

Wedding No. 2

Today in Zhongshan we had the Bride's wedding. This was a much smaller affair and included only the brides’s immediate family- so there were only about 30 tables. Only 300 people. About 30 minutes after we arrived I was asked to give a speech. And tell the bride's sister what I was going to say so she could translate. Which gave me about 1 minute to think about what to say. So of course I said something corny and not well-thought out.

The food came out with a lot of fan-fare and girls with lanterns. Two boys came out with a dragon and a phoenix on poles and a line of girls holding fancy lanterns. Tonight we had lobster and suckling pig again- which came out with little blinking hearts in its eyes, as if it wasn't gruesome enough to see his face and tail still whole. But I love suckling pig so I can get over it. I didn't get to eat everything because I went with the couple to make toasts at each table. She had 3 tables of teachers! There was a waitress or hostess keeping us on track and moving us along. A sort of wedding whip-cracker.

After the dinner a bunch of us young folks went out for KTV (Karaoke). This was at a nice hotel with lots of chandeliers and a floor to ceiling window that looked out over the river. Pretty ritzy.

The best singers were the Bride's sister and her 9 year-old daughter (the flower girl in the picture above).

Fore!

Today in Zhongshan I went with the American contingent to the Zhongshan Hot Springs. We had an interesting “Western” lunch and then walked around the area. There are large pools for swimming and, I assume, smaller hot tubs to take advantage of the hot springs. Inside the hotel confines there is a nicely manicured pond with trees and scholar stones. But overall it was a rather run-down place that could use a little modernizing.

On the same premises is a beautiful golf course that made me want to take up golfing. It had just started to rain and soft lawns curving into the mist with the sheets of rain coming down on the bamboo lining the lake and trees on the course really made it a very beautiful site. It was rather inconsistent with the hotel and resort down the road, where I assume golfers must stay.

China is really getting into the golf craze and there are several very popular courses just over the border from Hong Kong. Hong Kongese golf enthusiasts have only good things to say, especially about the 216-hole (12 courses in one location) golf-a-palooza in Dong Guan.

National day dragons and turtles

Today in Zhongshan we went to see some dragon boat races. These were quite different from the races in Hong Kong. For starters, these races are much longer distance. Also, the boats are simple dug-outs. No dragons' head, no fancy paint job, no drumming coxswain.

They paddle down a canal through the town, 4 or 5 men paddling steady and hard. These guys seem like pros. The whole town (and then some I am sure) is lined up along the canal watching. It is very difficult to edge in to see. Again, my height helps here! But finally someone in our entourage has succeeded in herding us down to a tarp draped over some wood where someone's cousin's friend's customer (or something like that, it is always something like that) has set up a spot and claimed it as his own.

People make way for us foreigners. I seem to be in the smoking section as all the men seated on stools around me are smoking. I move to the back where I can still see over their heads and watch the race. I guess this sort of race is not that exciting if you are not at the finish line. There are boats going back and forth; it is impossible to tell who is ahead. It is not the furious paddling of Hong Kong, so all I can do is watch the boats go by and try to determine if one or another has gone by before.

We leave and head for lunch. Some guy who owes Brother a lot of money has invited us to have lunch at a place he has rented out. There are several tables on a dock-like structure with a roof over it. It is resting in the water and there are a few out buildings on stilts for private rooms. It is dining al fresco on the water, what else could you want?!

The host owes our friend money, but he evidently gave 200 roast pigs to the city, one for each township! And he is holding this meal for about 25 tables. I guess we know where the money went! And by inviting us he has bought himself some reprieve in the deadline for repayment.

Lunch is hot pot. Turtle hot pot. We are served some gelatinous stuff and some meat.
The gelatinous stuff is what I guess is the turtle's skin. It still has the “freckles" you can sometimes see on some turtles. American Mom gets a foot, with toenails still intact!!
We hand that one over to the groom!

This restaurant has all kinds of things for sale: eels and snakes, frogs, turtles of course, and some sort of mammal that looks like a raccoon crossed with a sloth?! We don't know what it is. We want to set it free.

(I will post a picture of the restaurant later when I get one from the others. I had already run out of batteries on my camera by this time)

Shrimp!

Today in Zhongshan we went to the groom's brother's shrimp farm. We saw how they feed the shrimp and check how they are growing. Then we ate about 500 shrimps right out of the water then and there! It was so delicious. They steamed 'em up, made some soy and garlic sauce for dipping, and we plunged in each eating about 20 shrimp. Well, American Brother #2 may have eaten a few more than that. The pile of shells in front of him was about as big as a football!

They also took one of the chickens roaming around and we had that for dinner too. We ate al fresco by the shrimp ponds, laughing and eating way past full.

Wedding marathon begins

Today in Zhongshan is the big day of the wedding. It starts out with the groom giving respect to his uncles. He is dressed in white with a big red bow wrapped around him. This is his father’s sash (represents his father) and tucked into the back is what looks like a matching red napkin. Later there is a pink towel where the napkin was. The groom goes around to his uncles with his best man holding a tray in one hand and his cell phone in another to bow and received a red envelope. These uncles are the benefactors of the groom so he is showing them his respect and they are giving him some blessing money. The towels represent each uncle. Then, a bowl of tapioca or something is brought to each benefactor (and anyone who wants one after they get theirs).


The groom must also kowtow and bow to the altar where incense is lit before a porcelain Guan Yin. On the table are two roast pigs and special offerings: a bowl of fruit, red eggs (red=happiness, eggs=fertility), bai jiu (fortified rice alcohol), a bowl of rice, tang yuan, tea
…

Later, we go to a huge lunch at the restaurant where the wedding banquet will be held. The place is packed with diners- it is amazing that they will have it all ready to go for a big wedding party in just a few hours. We have about 6 tables of groom's people and family. We are fueling up for the big battle with the bridesmaids.

I am a bridesmaid too so when we arrive at the bride's house I run ahead to take up my station. Well, really I just go hang out with the bride for awhile. Downstairs the battle is raging between the bridesmaids and groomsmen. The bridesmaids will not give up the bride for less than 999 RMB. The groomsmen will not give more than 999 RMB. But so far they have only given about 400. I come out of the locked bedroom just as the groomsmen burst into the kitchen waving a few more paltry 10’s around. The bride's sister counts. NOT ENOUGH!


We are already about 2 hours behind schedule and it is hot and unairconditioned and we are all dressed up. The Groom tells me to tell the bride that enough is enough, we are late and it is really hot.
I knock on the door.
The girls inside won't listen to anyone but the bride's sister.
Guys and girls are shouting at each other and money is exchanging hands and some begging can be heard. The groom is made to sing a love song to woo the bride. Nothing will sway the defiant bridesmaids.
The groom has made it to the door by physically removing myself and the bride's sister-in-law. He tells her too that it is too hot and we gotta go (because we really are late).

The bride's sister comes to the door and lets the bride know that it is not enough. They have only given 560 RMB!! Cheapskates!
The groom's logic was only a ruse!
The bride doesnt come out.

More yelling and arguing. Finally, the groom is allowed inside the room, where he is to put on her shoes.
Uh-oh! One shoe is missing! The bridesmaids have hidden it!! I find it inside the duvet, so we have to go inside and look for it between the blanket and the duvet cover!


And the whole time, a group of 4 are sitting in the midst of the commotion calmly playing mah-jong!!


Once the groom has safely taken possession of his bride, the real ceremony begins. The bride and groom will serve tea to the bride's relatives, who will in turn give them blessings and some gold jewelry.
Everyone is crowded around and taking pictures and it is hot and crowded. But the four people involved, bride and groom on their knees on cushions before her parents, seated on chairs, seem unfazed. Each takes a sip of tea and the parents give the bride some gold bracelets and the groom a gold ring. By the time they have gone through all of the aunts and uncles, the bride is dripping in gaudy gold jewelry. It is a very nice ceremony.


Next it is on to the groom's family for the tea ceremony with his family. This is the guy with like 30 uncles so you know it will take a while!


The wedding banquet itself is a grand affair with 82 tables. That is 10 people per table, one lobster and one pig per table. That is an expensive wedding banquet!
We give a hong bao (red envelope with money) when we arrive, but here in Xiao Lan they have a custom that they give back 40% of the money you give.


The bride and groom walk down the aisle with sparkling fireworks going off. On the dias is a 9 layer cake. They cut it together and pour a huge bottle of champagne into stacked champagne glasses. The best man is the MC and he makes some funny comments and makes the bride and groom kiss for 17 seconds. They very craftily hold the bottle of champagne up so we can't see!

Then the groom's American father makes a speech.
Then we get to all eat!
The American family goes with the bride and groom to toast at the tables, but I sit tight. Otherwise I won't get anything to eat! After dinner there is a lot of time spent counting the money received and settling accounts with the restaurant.